Varese (county town of the homonymous province since 1927) rises on the hills of the Lombard Pre-Alps and currently has over 80,000 inhabitants.
The city of Varese - also called the garden city due to its natural beauties - boasts a civilisation and history whose roots delve into the mists of time. It’s that of the “water civilisation”, which starts in the 5th millennium BC, as shown by the pile-dwelling ruins surrounding the lake (for in-depth information, see the page dedicated to the Museum of Isolino Virginia).
The historic nucleus was first formed as a military command under colonization by Republican Rome, and then as an inhabited place. In was part of the Contado del Seprio in the Middle ages and then fell under domination by the dukedom of Milan. It was a “free city state” until 1765, when it fell under the Seigniory of Francesco III d’Este (Duke of Modena) until he died only 15 years later. At that point, it became a city state once again until 1816, when it was given the title of city by the Emperor of Austria. It joined the revolutionary revolts in 1848: the soldiers in Garibaldi’s army defeated the Austrians at Biumo in the famous battle of 26 May 1859.
Much evidence remains of Varese’s age-old history. The most important is associated with Christianity and therefore places of worship. First and foremost is Santa Maria del Monte (better known as the Sacred Mountain of Varese) and the Sacred Road.
The Church of Santo Stefano (9th – 11th centuries) is just out of town in Bizzozzero; it’s one of the city’s oldest churches. It’s home to a remarkable series of frescoes, which are part of the 16th-century work by Galdino da Varese. The other paintings are from the Romanesque period. The bell tower dates back to the end of the 10th century and was rebuilt in 1347.
And then there is what is rightfully considered one of the most important monuments in the city: the Basilica di San Vittore (16th – 17th centuries). It was built at the end of the 16th century by local Giuseppe Bernascone on a project by architect Pellegrini (known as “Tibaldi"). The neoclassical façade is work by Viennese Pollack. The Rosario chapel inside is home to valuable paintings by P. Francesco Mazzucchelli (known as “Morazzone”). The basilica’s bell tower (so-called “by Bernascone”) is one of the most beautiful 17th-century Lombard constructions. Other churches of significant historic and artistic interest include Sant’Imerio in Bosto, and Sant’Antonio alla Motta and San Giorgio in Biumo.
In terms of civilian buildings, Palazzo Estense (now Town Hall), the Castello di Masnago (Masnago castle) and its series of profane frescoes, the 11th –century Torre di Velate (Velate tower) [a patrimony of FAI (Italian Environment Fund)], Villa Mirabello, Ville Ponti, Villa Litta Panza, Villa Recalcati, the ruins of the historic Castello di Belforte (Belforte castle) and the civic tower in Piazza Monte Grappa are worth mentioning.
However, a visit to Varese should also include a stroll in the pleasant old town centre and its 18th –century porticoes. Starting in Corso Matteotti, filled with pleasant shopping opportunities, the walk continues to Piazza Podesta' (better known as Piazza del Garibaldino due to the statue) and the adjacent Palazzo Biumi (so-called “Broletto”).