The The Basilica of S. Vittore rises in the centre of Varese, and the city’s religious life has rotated around it for centuries. The current building was built in the 16th century, but the original structure probably dates back to the 5th century. This would explain the dedication to Saint Victor, a martyr who died in 304. The discovery of a Roman tombstone with a hymn to Jove on it indicates there was pagan worship in the area.
The outside of the Basilica of San Vittore
It is possible that S. Vittore was the head of a parish that depended on the archbishop of Milan as early as in the 9th century; it most certainly was in the 10th century. A document from 942 refers to the diatribe between the basilica and the Sanctuary of S. Maria del Monte, which was considered schismatic because of probable Longobard foundation. The document clearly indicates the supremacy of S. Vittore with respect to the sanctuary, but despite this fact, the dispute continued for centuries.
At the end of the 15th century, the basilica was considered too small and not prestigious enough for the village. The Renaissance presbytery and apse were built at the beginning of the 16th century. The three naves were rebuilt in late-manneristic style between 1580-1625 on a project by Pellegrino Tibaldi in collaboration with Giuseppe Bernasconi from Varese. Using part of the material from another church, the façade was finally completed in 1791 on drawings by Leopold Pollack.
Conceived in neo-classical style and divided into two horizontal spaces separated by a trabeation bearing a dedication to the saint, its proportions are slightly squashed. The majestic central portal is framed by Doric columns supporting a rounded arch where there are two statues of angels by Ludovico Pogliaghi (founder of the homonymous Pogliaghi Museum). The side doors comprise columns connected by an architrave. The elegant dome lantern with an orthogonal section dominated by a small stone lantern is by Bernasconi. He is also responsible for the bell tower standing out on the right of the basilica. Works started in 1617 and were only completed 150 years later. This is obvious by the results: the style is typically Lombard late-mannerism up to the bell chamber, while the top - which was raised following an intervention by Giuseppe Baroffio - is baroque.
Basilica of San Vittore: inside
The inside – with three naves and richly frescoed vaults – has valuable works of art. The first arch has a fresco with Abraham and Lot by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone, while the first chapel shows Mass by St. Gregory the Great, by Giovan Battista Crespi also known as Il Cerano. The three frescoes in the apse depict the martyrdom of Saint Victor and were done by Salvatore Bianchi. The oldest chapel (started in 1580) is the one to the left of the transept and is known as the Chapel of the Rosary. It has the wooden antependium from the original altar, with scenes from the Battle of Lepanto.
The side frescoes by Il Morazzone are also praiseworthy: the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Marriage of the Virgin. The first chapel in the left nave has another painting by the same artist: the assumption of Saint Mary Magdalene into Heaven. The white-marble high altar is rather recent work by sculptor Floriano Bodini (1991) from Varese. The ancient high altar (1734-1742) is currently in the presbytery and was made with inlaid multicoloured marble by the Buzzi brothers from Viggiù.
Photo gallery Basilica of San Vittore
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